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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.